An Infused Vinegar Sampler

Here are a few combinations of vinegar, herbs, and other flavors to get you thinking about creating your own flavored vinegars. Experiment freely and often as new herbs and local produce pops up.

Berry Vinegar

Makes 2 cups infused vinegar

2 cups white wine vinegar

1 cup fresh berries or mixed berries, cleaned and patted dry

2 tablespoons light honey

6 sprigs thyme, gently bruised

Tarragon Garlic Vinegar

Makes 2 cups infused vinegar

2 cups white wine or cider vinegar

6 sprigs fresh tarragon, gently bruised

1 clove garlic, peeled

Lemon Oregano Vinegar

Makes 2 cups infused vinegar

2 cups white wine vinegar

1 bunch fresh oregano sprigs (about 10 to 15 4-inch sprigs with blooms, if desired), gently bruised

4 wide strips of lemon zest

1 clove garlic, peeled

Making Herbal Infused Vinegar

• Begin by gathering the herbs you want to use, whether from your own garden or from a farmers market.

Rinse them thoroughly and gently pat dry. Use the sprigs intact; do not strip the leaves. For every 2 cups of vinegar, use about 1 cup of herbs, more or less according to personal taste and the desired strength of the herb flavor.

• Choose vinegars that will absorb flavor easily: white wine or red wine vinegar, cider vinegar, rice wine vinegar, or champagne vinegar. Distilled white vinegar and balsamic vinegar are strong and distinct in their own flavor and don’t share the spotlight well with other flavors. Gently warm, not heat, the vinegar in a small saucepan.

• Using clean hands, bruise or lightly crush or rub the herbs to release the oils and flavors. Place them in a clean, sterilized quart jar and add the warmed vinegar. It can be as simple as that, or you can add other seasonal, local, and flavorful ingredients. Follow the suggestions below or experiment with your own preferences.

• Seal with a tight-fitting lid and shake gently to combine. Let the jar sit at room temperature for 2 weeks, shaking the contents occasionally. Taste the vinegar after that time to determine if it has the desired flavor.

If not, replace the herbs with fresh ones, let steep for an additional week, and taste again. If the flavor is too strong, add more vinegar to dilute and soften the taste.

• When the vinegar has the desired flavor, strain into a clean container through several layers of cheesecloth or a coffee filter, discarding the solids. Store the strained vinegar in a clean, sterilized bottle or jar, adding a fresh herb sprig, if desired. Seal, using a cork or tight-fitting lid, label, and store in a cool part of the kitchen, away from direct sunlight.

While vinegars have an indefinite shelf life, it’s best to create only what you’ll use in a year’s time and then repeat the process when fresh herbs are available the following season.

Consider the following suggestions for adding complex flavor:

• Herbs. Those producing especially flavorful vinegars include basil, chives, dill, fennel, garlic, lemon balm, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, tarragon, and thyme.

• Berries. Most seasonal berries such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries make flavourful additions to vinegar blends, especially those used to dress fruit salads. Strain out the berries before storing.

• Edible Flowers and Blossoms. Pretty chive, oregano, or sage blossoms add flavor and beautiful color to clear vinegars. Nasturtiums add a peppery flavor, and marigolds a citrus tang, while johnny-jump-ups add a hint of mint. Bean and pea blossoms and shoots add a little sweet flavor. (Not all flowers are edible. Choose only blossoms you know are safe.)

• Fruits. Add 1 cup of peeled, chopped, ever so slightly overripe fruits such as peaches, nectarines, and apricots or pears and Asian pears to steep in the vinegar. Strain well before storing.

• Garlic. Add one or two whole, peeled cloves.

• Whole Spices (such as allspice, cloves, coriander seed, cumin seed, dill and fennel seed, and peppercorns).

Do not use ground or crushed spices, which will cloud the vinegar. Thin slivers or slices of peeled fresh ginger root can also be added.

• Honey. A tablespoon or two of honey naturally complements berry vinegars.

• Lemon or Orange Peel. Add thin, wide strips of citrus zest removed from the fruit using a vegetable peeler or paring knife.

Escarole Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 small heads escarole, washed, trimmed, sliced into strips

8 cups rich chicken stock or vegetable stock

4 cups chopped fresh ripe tomatoes*

3 tablespoons prepared pesto, more or less to taste

½ cup small pasta or spaghetti noodles broken into pieces

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté an additional minute, stirring constantly. Add the escarole and sauté until it is soft and limp. Add the chicken stock and tomatoes; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Stir in the pesto.

Add the pasta and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in the cheese. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot with crusty bread.

While lettuces tend to be thought of only as a salad ingredient, heartier greens like escarole find their way into soups. Braising escarole renders it sweet and tender. The finished soup is just another fine example of how simplicity in ingredients yields complex flavors.

*Canned or frozen tomatoes with their juices may be substituted for fresh.

Making your own pesto is easy and produces a great ingredient for adding flavour to soups.

simple and seasonal, leafy greens

Here’s a primer on varieties of greens you’ll find popping up in gardens or at markets as early as spring and some into the fall. Remember that within each variety you’ll find plenty of variations. Some work alone in a salad, but feel free to toss them together to create the balance of flavors and textures that suits your palate.

arugula: An early-season, long-leafed green, arugula has a peppery punch that adds spice to a salad mix; it’s also a special treat on its own with a simple dressing and some fresh tomatoes.

butterhead lettuce: Cool-weather-loving head lettuces such as Bibb and Buttercrunch have a soft texture and a nice nutty flavor; butterhead lettuce teams well with strawberries.

dandelion greens: The buttery leaves of the backyard flower are mildly bitter and tangy and best harvested young in early summer.

endive or frisée: Same lettuce, different names. Curly and frilly, it adds a peppery, nutty bite to salads.

escarole: A close cousin to endive, escarole is milder and more lettuce-like, with broad green leaves.

green or red loose leaf: Loosely gathered leaves in colors ranging from purple to red and dark to light greens have a soft texture and mild taste. They are best mixed in with sturdy salad greens.

mâche: Also called “lambs’ lettuce,” mâche is fragile and velvety with a subtle flavor.

mesclun: A mix of leaf and loose-headed lettuces, mesclun may include mustards, cresses, parsley, arugula, wild greens, and more. The types of lettuces are not as important as the taste and texture sensations balanced throughout the salad: sweet, bitter, tangy, crunchy, and silky.

mizuna: The tender, jagged leaves of mizuna have a peppery flavor and offer a nice contrast to leaf lettuces.

oak leaf: In shades of green or burgundy, the leaves are notched like a common oak leaf. The flavor is sweet and the texture is tender and delicate.

radicchio: Looking like a tiny head of red cabbage but slightly bitter, radicchio adds a great crunch to salads.

romaine: A great all-around sweet-tasting salad green, romaine has plenty of crunch and crevices to hold onto salad dressing.

watercress: A special treat for salad green lovers, watercress has tiny, tender leaves and edible stems with a peppery edge.

Greens with Goat Cheese Croutons and Honey Thyme Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

8 ounces fresh goat cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, divided use

1 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided use

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 cup unseasoned dry breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon honey

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

6 cups assorted fresh salad greens, washed and dried

Divide the cheese into four 2-ounce portions, forming each into a medallion shape, about 1 inch thick. Season lightly with salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the thyme leaves. In a shallow bowl, whisk together ¼ cup of the olive oil and the mustard. Dip the goat cheese in the oil mixture to coat all sides and then roll in the breadcrumbs.

Place in a lightly oiled baking dish and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours before baking.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Bake for 12 minutes or until the center is soft to the touch. Remove from the oven and let stand for 10 minutes.

To make the vinaigrette, whisk the honey, vinegar, and remaining tablespoon of thyme together. Add the remaining ¾ cup olive oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Toss salad greens with the vinaigrette and divide between 4 salad plates. Top each salad with a warm goat cheese medallion and serve immediately

Bread Soup with Lettuce

Makes 6 servings

2 or 3 heads Bibb lettuce

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, chopped

6 cups rich chicken stock

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

4 thick slices of coarse, rustic bread, lightly toasted, cubed

Core the lettuce heads and cut the leaves into thin strips. Warm the oil in a stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until soft, translucent, and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the lettuce and stir until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes to blend flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the bread cubes to the soup or divide them among individual bowls and pour the stock over the top. Serve immediately.

Arugula and Frisée Salad

Makes 6 servings

4 tablespoons nuts (pine nuts, walnuts, or hazelnuts), coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 6-ounce bunch frisée, washed, dried, and torn into bite-size pieces

1 6-ounce bunch arugula, thick stems removed and discarded

1 cup ripe cherry tomatoes, halved

¼ cup shaved Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish

Toast the nuts in a small skillet over low heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until they are golden and fragrant. Transfer the nuts to a bowl to cool. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Add the greens, tomatoes, and cheese, tossing gently to coat. Divide among 6 chilled salad plates. Top with the nuts and garnish with a shaving of Parmesan.

Punchy Peppery Salad

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons freshly minced flat-leaf parsley

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 small heads radicchio, washed, spun dry, and torn

2 bunches watercress, washed, trimmed, and separated into sprigs

2 bunches fresh arugula, washed, spun dry, and torn, stems removed

3 scallions, thinly sliced

1 cup shaved Parmesan cheese

To make the dressing, combine the vinegar, mustard, and parsley in a small bowl. Add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly, and whisk until blended. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Toss the greens and scallions in a large salad bowl, add the dressing, and toss to coat the leaves. Top with the cheese and serve immediately.

Bibb and Spinach Salad with Fresh Strawberries

Makes 6 servings

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Pinch of sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 head fresh Bibb lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces, washed and dried

4 cups fresh spinach leaves, washed and dried

1 quart fresh strawberries, cleaned, hulled, and sliced

6 tablespoons nuts (pine nuts, walnuts, or pecans), toasted

In a large bowl, whisk the mayonnaise with the lemon juice. Gradually whisk in the olive oil and season with a pinch of sugar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the lettuce, spinach, and strawberries. Toss gently until the leaves are coated. Divide between 6 chilled salad plates and top with a tablespoon of toasted nuts.