Thursday, November 17, 2011

Escarole Soup


Makes 6 to 8 servings
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 small heads escarole, washed, trimmed, sliced into strips
8 cups rich chicken stock or vegetable stock
4 cups chopped fresh ripe tomatoes*
3 tablespoons prepared pesto, more or less to taste
½ cup small pasta or spaghetti noodles broken into pieces
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté an additional minute, stirring constantly. Add the escarole and sauté until it is soft and limp. Add the chicken stock and tomatoes; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Stir in the pesto.
Add the pasta and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in the cheese. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot with crusty bread.

While lettuces tend to be thought of only as a salad ingredient, heartier greens like escarole find their way into soups. Braising escarole renders it sweet and tender. The finished soup is just another fine example of how simplicity in ingredients yields complex flavors.

*Canned or frozen tomatoes with their juices may be substituted for fresh.
Making your own pesto is easy and produces a great ingredient for adding flavour to soups.

simple and seasonal, leafy greens
Here’s a primer on varieties of greens you’ll find popping up in gardens or at markets as early as spring and some into the fall. Remember that within each variety you’ll find plenty of variations. Some work alone in a salad, but feel free to toss them together to create the balance of flavors and textures that suits your palate.

arugula: An early-season, long-leafed green, arugula has a peppery punch that adds spice to a salad mix; it’s also a special treat on its own with a simple dressing and some fresh tomatoes.

butterhead lettuce: Cool-weather-loving head lettuces such as Bibb and Buttercrunch have a soft texture and a nice nutty flavor; butterhead lettuce teams well with strawberries.

dandelion greens: The buttery leaves of the backyard flower are mildly bitter and tangy and best harvested young in early summer.

endive or frisée: Same lettuce, different names. Curly and frilly, it adds a peppery, nutty bite to salads.
escarole: A close cousin to endive, escarole is milder and more lettuce-like, with broad green leaves.

green or red loose leaf: Loosely gathered leaves in colors ranging from purple to red and dark to light greens have a soft texture and mild taste. They are best mixed in with sturdy salad greens.

mâche: Also called “lambs’ lettuce,” mâche is fragile and velvety with a subtle flavor.

mesclun: A mix of leaf and loose-headed lettuces, mesclun may include mustards, cresses, parsley, arugula, wild greens, and more. The types of lettuces are not as important as the taste and texture sensations balanced throughout the salad: sweet, bitter, tangy, crunchy, and silky.

mizuna: The tender, jagged leaves of mizuna have a peppery flavor and offer a nice contrast to leaf lettuces.

oak leaf: In shades of green or burgundy, the leaves are notched like a common oak leaf. The flavor is sweet and the texture is tender and delicate.

radicchio: Looking like a tiny head of red cabbage but slightly bitter, radicchio adds a great crunch to salads.

romaine: A great all-around sweet-tasting salad green, romaine has plenty of crunch and crevices to hold onto salad dressing.

watercress: A special treat for salad green lovers, watercress has tiny, tender leaves and edible stems with a peppery edge.

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