An Infused Vinegar Sampler

Here are a few combinations of vinegar, herbs, and other flavors to get you thinking about creating your own flavored vinegars. Experiment freely and often as new herbs and local produce pops up.

Berry Vinegar

Makes 2 cups infused vinegar

2 cups white wine vinegar

1 cup fresh berries or mixed berries, cleaned and patted dry

2 tablespoons light honey

6 sprigs thyme, gently bruised

Tarragon Garlic Vinegar

Makes 2 cups infused vinegar

2 cups white wine or cider vinegar

6 sprigs fresh tarragon, gently bruised

1 clove garlic, peeled

Lemon Oregano Vinegar

Makes 2 cups infused vinegar

2 cups white wine vinegar

1 bunch fresh oregano sprigs (about 10 to 15 4-inch sprigs with blooms, if desired), gently bruised

4 wide strips of lemon zest

1 clove garlic, peeled

Making Herbal Infused Vinegar

• Begin by gathering the herbs you want to use, whether from your own garden or from a farmers market.

Rinse them thoroughly and gently pat dry. Use the sprigs intact; do not strip the leaves. For every 2 cups of vinegar, use about 1 cup of herbs, more or less according to personal taste and the desired strength of the herb flavor.

• Choose vinegars that will absorb flavor easily: white wine or red wine vinegar, cider vinegar, rice wine vinegar, or champagne vinegar. Distilled white vinegar and balsamic vinegar are strong and distinct in their own flavor and don’t share the spotlight well with other flavors. Gently warm, not heat, the vinegar in a small saucepan.

• Using clean hands, bruise or lightly crush or rub the herbs to release the oils and flavors. Place them in a clean, sterilized quart jar and add the warmed vinegar. It can be as simple as that, or you can add other seasonal, local, and flavorful ingredients. Follow the suggestions below or experiment with your own preferences.

• Seal with a tight-fitting lid and shake gently to combine. Let the jar sit at room temperature for 2 weeks, shaking the contents occasionally. Taste the vinegar after that time to determine if it has the desired flavor.

If not, replace the herbs with fresh ones, let steep for an additional week, and taste again. If the flavor is too strong, add more vinegar to dilute and soften the taste.

• When the vinegar has the desired flavor, strain into a clean container through several layers of cheesecloth or a coffee filter, discarding the solids. Store the strained vinegar in a clean, sterilized bottle or jar, adding a fresh herb sprig, if desired. Seal, using a cork or tight-fitting lid, label, and store in a cool part of the kitchen, away from direct sunlight.

While vinegars have an indefinite shelf life, it’s best to create only what you’ll use in a year’s time and then repeat the process when fresh herbs are available the following season.

Consider the following suggestions for adding complex flavor:

• Herbs. Those producing especially flavorful vinegars include basil, chives, dill, fennel, garlic, lemon balm, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, tarragon, and thyme.

• Berries. Most seasonal berries such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries make flavourful additions to vinegar blends, especially those used to dress fruit salads. Strain out the berries before storing.

• Edible Flowers and Blossoms. Pretty chive, oregano, or sage blossoms add flavor and beautiful color to clear vinegars. Nasturtiums add a peppery flavor, and marigolds a citrus tang, while johnny-jump-ups add a hint of mint. Bean and pea blossoms and shoots add a little sweet flavor. (Not all flowers are edible. Choose only blossoms you know are safe.)

• Fruits. Add 1 cup of peeled, chopped, ever so slightly overripe fruits such as peaches, nectarines, and apricots or pears and Asian pears to steep in the vinegar. Strain well before storing.

• Garlic. Add one or two whole, peeled cloves.

• Whole Spices (such as allspice, cloves, coriander seed, cumin seed, dill and fennel seed, and peppercorns).

Do not use ground or crushed spices, which will cloud the vinegar. Thin slivers or slices of peeled fresh ginger root can also be added.

• Honey. A tablespoon or two of honey naturally complements berry vinegars.

• Lemon or Orange Peel. Add thin, wide strips of citrus zest removed from the fruit using a vegetable peeler or paring knife.

Escarole Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 small heads escarole, washed, trimmed, sliced into strips

8 cups rich chicken stock or vegetable stock

4 cups chopped fresh ripe tomatoes*

3 tablespoons prepared pesto, more or less to taste

½ cup small pasta or spaghetti noodles broken into pieces

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté an additional minute, stirring constantly. Add the escarole and sauté until it is soft and limp. Add the chicken stock and tomatoes; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Stir in the pesto.

Add the pasta and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in the cheese. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot with crusty bread.

While lettuces tend to be thought of only as a salad ingredient, heartier greens like escarole find their way into soups. Braising escarole renders it sweet and tender. The finished soup is just another fine example of how simplicity in ingredients yields complex flavors.

*Canned or frozen tomatoes with their juices may be substituted for fresh.

Making your own pesto is easy and produces a great ingredient for adding flavour to soups.

simple and seasonal, leafy greens

Here’s a primer on varieties of greens you’ll find popping up in gardens or at markets as early as spring and some into the fall. Remember that within each variety you’ll find plenty of variations. Some work alone in a salad, but feel free to toss them together to create the balance of flavors and textures that suits your palate.

arugula: An early-season, long-leafed green, arugula has a peppery punch that adds spice to a salad mix; it’s also a special treat on its own with a simple dressing and some fresh tomatoes.

butterhead lettuce: Cool-weather-loving head lettuces such as Bibb and Buttercrunch have a soft texture and a nice nutty flavor; butterhead lettuce teams well with strawberries.

dandelion greens: The buttery leaves of the backyard flower are mildly bitter and tangy and best harvested young in early summer.

endive or frisée: Same lettuce, different names. Curly and frilly, it adds a peppery, nutty bite to salads.

escarole: A close cousin to endive, escarole is milder and more lettuce-like, with broad green leaves.

green or red loose leaf: Loosely gathered leaves in colors ranging from purple to red and dark to light greens have a soft texture and mild taste. They are best mixed in with sturdy salad greens.

mâche: Also called “lambs’ lettuce,” mâche is fragile and velvety with a subtle flavor.

mesclun: A mix of leaf and loose-headed lettuces, mesclun may include mustards, cresses, parsley, arugula, wild greens, and more. The types of lettuces are not as important as the taste and texture sensations balanced throughout the salad: sweet, bitter, tangy, crunchy, and silky.

mizuna: The tender, jagged leaves of mizuna have a peppery flavor and offer a nice contrast to leaf lettuces.

oak leaf: In shades of green or burgundy, the leaves are notched like a common oak leaf. The flavor is sweet and the texture is tender and delicate.

radicchio: Looking like a tiny head of red cabbage but slightly bitter, radicchio adds a great crunch to salads.

romaine: A great all-around sweet-tasting salad green, romaine has plenty of crunch and crevices to hold onto salad dressing.

watercress: A special treat for salad green lovers, watercress has tiny, tender leaves and edible stems with a peppery edge.

Greens with Goat Cheese Croutons and Honey Thyme Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

8 ounces fresh goat cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, divided use

1 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided use

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 cup unseasoned dry breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon honey

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

6 cups assorted fresh salad greens, washed and dried

Divide the cheese into four 2-ounce portions, forming each into a medallion shape, about 1 inch thick. Season lightly with salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the thyme leaves. In a shallow bowl, whisk together ¼ cup of the olive oil and the mustard. Dip the goat cheese in the oil mixture to coat all sides and then roll in the breadcrumbs.

Place in a lightly oiled baking dish and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours before baking.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Bake for 12 minutes or until the center is soft to the touch. Remove from the oven and let stand for 10 minutes.

To make the vinaigrette, whisk the honey, vinegar, and remaining tablespoon of thyme together. Add the remaining ¾ cup olive oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Toss salad greens with the vinaigrette and divide between 4 salad plates. Top each salad with a warm goat cheese medallion and serve immediately

Bread Soup with Lettuce

Makes 6 servings

2 or 3 heads Bibb lettuce

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, chopped

6 cups rich chicken stock

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

4 thick slices of coarse, rustic bread, lightly toasted, cubed

Core the lettuce heads and cut the leaves into thin strips. Warm the oil in a stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until soft, translucent, and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the lettuce and stir until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes to blend flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the bread cubes to the soup or divide them among individual bowls and pour the stock over the top. Serve immediately.

Arugula and Frisée Salad

Makes 6 servings

4 tablespoons nuts (pine nuts, walnuts, or hazelnuts), coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 6-ounce bunch frisée, washed, dried, and torn into bite-size pieces

1 6-ounce bunch arugula, thick stems removed and discarded

1 cup ripe cherry tomatoes, halved

¼ cup shaved Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish

Toast the nuts in a small skillet over low heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until they are golden and fragrant. Transfer the nuts to a bowl to cool. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Add the greens, tomatoes, and cheese, tossing gently to coat. Divide among 6 chilled salad plates. Top with the nuts and garnish with a shaving of Parmesan.

Punchy Peppery Salad

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons freshly minced flat-leaf parsley

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 small heads radicchio, washed, spun dry, and torn

2 bunches watercress, washed, trimmed, and separated into sprigs

2 bunches fresh arugula, washed, spun dry, and torn, stems removed

3 scallions, thinly sliced

1 cup shaved Parmesan cheese

To make the dressing, combine the vinegar, mustard, and parsley in a small bowl. Add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly, and whisk until blended. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Toss the greens and scallions in a large salad bowl, add the dressing, and toss to coat the leaves. Top with the cheese and serve immediately.

Bibb and Spinach Salad with Fresh Strawberries

Makes 6 servings

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Pinch of sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 head fresh Bibb lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces, washed and dried

4 cups fresh spinach leaves, washed and dried

1 quart fresh strawberries, cleaned, hulled, and sliced

6 tablespoons nuts (pine nuts, walnuts, or pecans), toasted

In a large bowl, whisk the mayonnaise with the lemon juice. Gradually whisk in the olive oil and season with a pinch of sugar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the lettuce, spinach, and strawberries. Toss gently until the leaves are coated. Divide between 6 chilled salad plates and top with a tablespoon of toasted nuts.

a season for all pickling Pickling Spice

Makes about ½ cup

4 tablespoons mustard seeds

2 tablespoons whole allspice

4 teaspoons black peppercorns

2 teaspoons dried chopped ginger root

2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes

4 small bay leaves, broken up

4-inch piece of cinnamon stick, cracked into small pieces

2 teaspoons cardamom pods 4 teaspoons whole cloves

Combine all the ingredients and store in an airtight container.

Classic Bread and Butter Pickle Chips

Makes 6 pint jars

4 pounds pickling cucumbers

4 small onions, cut into large dice

1 green bell pepper, cut into large dice

1 red bell pepper, cut into large dice

2 tablespoons pickling salt

4 cups cider vinegar

3 cups sugar

2 tablespoons mustard seeds

1 teaspoon celery seeds

½ teaspoon turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

Trim the ends of the cucumbers and cut into slices about ¼ to ½ inch thick.

Combine the cucumber slices, onion, and peppers in a large colander. Sprinkle with the pickling salt and let drain for 3 hours. Rinse thoroughly before proceeding.

Combine the vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, turmeric, and cloves in a large nonreactive pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the cucumber mixture.

Return to a boil for 30 seconds.

Using a slotted spoon, pack the hot cucumber mixture into wide mouthed jars to within ½ inch of the rim (headspace). Add enough hot liquid to cover the contents. Seal and process for 10 minutes.

“Bread and butter pickles are on the sweeter end of the pickle spectrum. Serve them with cold meat and pasta salads or chop up as a relish and use for burgers.”

Sweet Garlic Dills

Makes 4 pint jars

4 pounds pickling cucumbers

2 cups distilled white vinegar

2/3 cup water

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons pickling salt

4 cloves garlic

4 fresh dill flower heads

1 teaspoon celery seeds

2 teaspoons black peppercorns, cracked

Trim the cucumbers to 4-inch lengths to fit in the jars. Slice in half lengthwise.

Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and pickling salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil.

Place 1 clove of garlic, 1 dill seed head, ¼ teaspoon celery seeds, and ½ teaspoon peppercorns in each of the wide mouthed pint jars. Tightly pack the cucumbers in the jars.

Ladle the hot liquid over the cucumbers to within ½ inch of the rim (headspace). Seal and process for 10 minutes.

Classic Garlic Dill Pickles

Makes 4 pint jars

3 pounds pickling cucumbers

2 cups distilled white vinegar

2 cups water

2 tablespoons pickling salt

4 fresh dill flower heads

4 small cloves garlic

Trim the cucumbers to 4-inch lengths to fit in one-pint jars. Slice in half lengthwise. If the cucumbers are particularly thick, quarter them.

Combine the vinegar, water, and pickling salt in a nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil.

Place a dill flower head and a clove of garlic in each of the widemouthed pint jars.

Tightly pack the cucumbers in the jars. Ladle the hot liquid over the cucumbers to within ½ inch of the rim (headspace). Seal and process for 10 minutes.

A Trio of Pickled Classics

Cooks who “put up” pickles, whether chips or spears or whole, do so because the flavor and the crunch is far superior to those that come from a grocery store shelf. Prove it to yourself by taking a jar of your own home-canned pickles to a potluck. Chances are very good it will return home—empty.

“Canning”  and “Pickled Vegetables, Relishes, and Salsas”  provide a step-by-step guide to the basics of canning and pickling. Once you’re familiar with the process, try any of these classic pickle recipes. Before you get started, here are a few more helpful tips related to canning pickles.

• Soak fresh, uncut cucumbers in ice-cold water for 2 hours before canning to ensure crispness.

• Use widemouthed jars for canning pickles. The wide opening makes it easier to pack pickles in—and take them out.

• In recipes calling for garlic, gently crush the cloves, enough that they release their flavor yet still hold their shape.

• Use the flower heads of dill just beginning to go to seed. They deliver the most potent dill flavor.

Lamb Burgers with Cucumber Sauce

Makes 4 burgers and 1 cup of sauce

Sauce:

½ cup diced peeled and seeded cucumber

½ cup plain yogurt

2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley

Burgers:

1½ pounds ground lamb

½ cup fresh breadcrumbs

1 small red onion, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Zest from two fresh lemons

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/8 teaspoon ground cumin

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Extra virgin olive oil, for brushing

4 8-inch flat rounds of pita bread

Chopped tomatoes, to accompany

Thin slices of red onion, to accompany

Sauce:

In a small bowl, stir together the diced cucumber, yogurt, parsley, 2 cloves garlic, cumin,

and black pepper. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

Burgers:

Preheat the grill to medium-high.

In a medium bowl, lightly mix the ground lamb with the breadcrumbs, onions, 1 clove garlic, mint, parsley, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Shape the meat mixture into 4 oval patties one-half inch thick and transfer to a platter lined with plastic wrap. Brush the burgers with olive oil.

Grill the burgers for 6 minutes on each side until cooked through and the internal temperature registers 160°F when tested with a meat thermometer. Move to the cooler part of the grill.

Quickly warm the pitas on the grill. Fold the pitas over the burgers and serve with cucumber sauce, chopped tomato, and red onion slices.

“When the heat of summer climbs, you’ll be “cool as a cucumber” sipping this delicious soup—chilled, of course. The popular phrase is an apt one. When a cucumber is on the vine, even on the hottest of days, its internal temperature can be about 10 degrees lower than the air temperature.

Juicy lamb burgers are a welcome departure from typical beef burgers as the summer grilling season moves on. The smoky taste of the grilled lamb pairs perfectly with the cool cucumber sauce.”

Cucumber and Mint Soup

Makes 6 servings

3 fresh cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped

1 cup plain yogurt

½ cup sour cream or crème fraîche (page 50)

½ teaspoon dry mustard

½ teaspoon salt

¼ cup chopped fresh mint leaves

Thin slices of cucumber and mint sprigs for garnish

Puree the cucumbers, yogurt, sour cream, mustard, and salt in a blender for 1 minute.

Transfer to a bowl or pitcher. Cover and chill at least 6 hours or overnight. Just before serving, stir in the chopped mint leaves. Ladle the soup into chilled soup bowls and garnish each bowl with a thin slice of cucumber and a sprig of mint

Cucumber and Watermelon Salad

Makes 8 servings

¼ cup distilled white vinegar

¼ cup sugar

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 fresh cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced

4 cups seeded and cubed watermelon

2 teaspoons salt, divided use

¼ cup thinly sliced red onion

Combine the vinegar, sugar, and red pepper flakes in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and cool.

Place the sliced cucumbers in a colander, toss with 1 teaspoon salt, and let sit for 30 minutes. Rinse and pat dry. When ready to serve, toss the watermelon with the remaining teaspoon salt, add the cucumbers and red onion, and dress with the vinegar mixture. Toss until combined. Serve at room temperature or chill for a few hours before serving.

Cucumber Salad with Cilantro and Peanuts

Makes 6 servings

3 tablespoons water

3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

1 clove garlic, crushed

Dash of salt

1 or 2 whole, small chile peppers, optional

1 large cucumber, seeded, if necessary, thinly sliced

½ cup freshly chopped cilantro

½ cup roasted, unsalted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Sprigs of cilantro for garnish

Combine water, vinegar, sugar, garlic, salt, and chile pepper in a small saucepan.

Place over medium heat and stir occasionally until sugar dissolves. Let cool at room temperature.

Combine the sliced cucumbers and cilantro in a large bowl. Pour the vinegar dressing over and toss until combined. Let sit for a few minutes before serving. Top with chopped peanuts and sprigs of cilantro for garnish.

Lemon Dill Beans

Makes 3 pint jars

1 pound green beans, rinsed and trimmed

1 pound yellow beans, rinsed and trimmed

2½ cups cider vinegar

1¼ cups water

1 tablespoon pickling salt

1 tablespoon sugar

3 teaspoons pickling spice

3 large strips of lemon zest

Trim the beans into 4-inch lengths to fit into one-pint glass canning jars.

Combine the vinegar, water, pickling salt, and sugar in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add 1 teaspoon pickling spice and 1 strip of lemon zest to each pint jar. Tightly pack the green beans into the jars. (Laying the jar on its side to do this is helpful.) Pour the boiling pickling liquid into the jars to within ½ inch of the rim (headspace), seal, and process for 5 minutes.

pickling salt

Fine-grained, like table salt, pickling salt is the purest of salts, highly concentrated and the choice for canning. It contains no anticaking chemicals, which can turn preserved foods unappetizing colors. Use it for pickling vegetables or making sauerkraut.

Green Bean and Walnut Sauté↜

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 cup walnuts↜

2 pounds fresh green beans, rinsed and trimmed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter↜

2 tablespoons walnut oil or canola oil↜

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley↜

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Spread the walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for 5 to 8 minutes until lightly browned and fragrant. Watch carefully so the nuts don’t burn. Remove from baking sheet into a bowl, let cool, and coarsely chop.

Cook the beans in a large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Drain well. (This step can be done up to 6 hours ahead of time and the beans held at room temperature.)

Melt the butter with the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the beans and toss until coated and heated through, about 4 to 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the walnuts and parsley and toss. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Green Beans with Crème Fraîche and Chives

Makes 4 servings

1 pound fresh green beans, rinsed and trimmed

Juice of one lemon

½ cup crème fraîche

1 shallot, minced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or chopped fresh dill

Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the green beans and cook until crisptender, about 3 minutes. Drain and plunge the beans into a bowl filled with ice water to stop the cooking. Drain again and pat dry to remove as much water as possible. Sprinkle the lemon juice over the beans. Transfer to a large bowl.

To make the sauce, mix the prepared crème fraîche with the minced shallot. Add the crème fraîche mixture to the beans and toss until coated. Scatter the chopped chives over the top, season with pepper, and serve immediately or chill for up to 6 hours.